Tuesday January 13, 2015
#LCM A/W 2015 REVIEW BY NEIL MOODIE Kicking off last Friday lunchtime with the TopMan Design Show at 12.30, […]
Kicking off last Friday lunchtime with the TopMan Design Show at 12.30, and going through to Monday 12th Jan ending at Saville Row (of course) has been what’s affectionately known in the social media world as #lcm or as its more commonly known, Men’s Fashion Week.
One of the main talking points was actually an off-schedule womenswear show: John Galliano’s first collection for Maison Martin Margiela, shown y’day.
There was no official word from Margiela on why the designer staged such a high profile presentation during the London Collections Men timetable, nor why they were showing couture womenswear in London, which usually takes place later in January, in Paris. In true Galliano fashion though, everything is done for a reason and I’m sure the decision to show in London was a totally conscious one, that they knew would cause a stir. I have to say, I don’t mind though because I and everyone at Windle London
love John Galliano.
Anyway, back to the job in hand:
So here’s my little run down for the men of how we at W&M, plus the fashion know how, think you might be doing your hair by the end of the year.
1) Natural unkempt textured fringes as seen at Margaret Howell, James Long, Agi and Sam, Christopher Shannon, Craig Green, Lee Roach, Lou Dalton, MAN and Matthew Miller.
2) Shaggy, Curly Bobs as seen at Shaun Samson, Margaret Howell, Burberry Prorsum, Matthew Miller and Todd Lynn
3) Slick haired variations as seen at JW Anderson, E Tautz, Caseley Hayford and Christopher Raeburn.
4) Think Pink Is the New Blonde is the new black at Sibling.
5)Flat Tops at MAN, Margaret Howell and Chris Raeburn
Burberry Prorsum, Men: The show titled ‘Classically Bohemian’ was all about vibrant outwear, classic tailoring, sequinned embellishment and the regular Burberry updated spin on the trench coat and their new addition, Burberry poncho. The trench is muted in natural tones for AW15 and comes in ivy green, taupe, purple and the perfect shade of yellow. There were shearling coats in navy, as well as green and plus paisley shirts, sometimes layered with animal print. There was also an unveiling of the Burberry Scholar eyewear.
Margaret Howell: The quintessentially British women and menswear designer was back in full force this mens show season. Never veering too far from her aesthetic ( She knows her customer like the back of her hand she gave us tapered leg trousers as well as the Mankle length trouser, a sleeveless grey knitted top with a white stripe subtly added in the small of the back. A chunky, tucked-in sweater with a giant argyle pattern in grey, like many other pieces, was worn over another piece of knitwear. Margaret gave us some accents of colour amongst her grey on grey palette, within the scarves and socks. Her classic white shirt was a tuxedo shirt, with a reinforced chest panel. The collection had plenty of little details like the white shearling peeking out at the top of the buttoning of a coat, or the ’60s width suit jackets.
**Margaret Howell was the one show I worked on the hair on for this weeks #lcm using Windle and Moodie products. For the hair we played on everyones pure natural texture, just enhancing what they already had with the use of Windle and Moodie Foundation Spray and Invisible Day and Night Cream.
TopMan Design: TopMan Design was all about vintage with their collection being called “Bombay City Rollers” focusing on two key decades, the 60s and the 70s. Big shaggy afghans from the East and ponchos from the West, both with patterned shirts underneath We also saw some oversized flower-power motifs, flares and patched denim. There were some mod inspired chalk-stripe suits put with polos necks, mohair outerwear, with the overlap between hippie and glam pieced together through the Bay City Rollers, the One Direction of their day. The band’s signature tartan appeared on sleeveless sweaters, wrist scarves, and on suits.
E. Tautz : The show was called “Terry Street,” after Scottish poet Douglas Dunn’s late Sixties collection of poems chronicling life in working class northern England. What that brought was collection in the monochrome palette of grey and black, with a few sniffs of white. On saying that a richness came through in the textured fabrics of this oversized tailoring collection, with double-breasted overcoats made of blouclé tweed.
Kit Neale: inspired by the work of Fred G. Johnson, a prolific circus sideshow banner artist as well as large typography. Kit’s collection Featured workwear inspired silhouettes, strong graphics, lots of eye catching orange and a collection which celebrates Schiaparelli 1938 circus collection, and for the hat lovers of this world there were pork-pie hats.
The looks that appeared to be the most popular throughout this long weekend of shows are: Faux fur, Shearling, Slogan Jumpers and t-shirts, plus monochrome colour mixed with bright bold colours.
So that’s all folks- see you in Feb/Mar sometime for the womens.
I DO HAVE ONE LAST WORD THOUGH… If you’re wondering what’s going to be the next trend after the beard, well there’s one designer who thinks it will be this. Lego!!!
I’ll leave you to decide if you think it will catch on…